The Art of Fragrance Design: A Conversation with Chyi Ruey

Hi, I’m Chyi Ruey, the founder of PĀNG. My artistic foundation is rooted in visual media, where I've consistently used photography and video to create contemporary art. With the launch of 'PĀNG', my fragrance brand, I'm exploring the fascinating challenge of capturing the essence of scent through evocative imagery.

I studied Media and Communication at Goldsmiths, University of London for my BA and MA. I chose images as my medium. Designing for my own brand, PĀNG, was super difficult. Since design isn't my strongest area, I initially sought professional help. However, my personal artistic vision proved quite strong, and I struggled to find a collaborative fit.

Ultimately, I decided to learn the ropes myself. I'm glad I did, as it ensured my brand truly reflects my unique style and personality. It was definitely the right decision to design my products myself.

‘PĀNG’ originates from the Taiwanese pronunciation of ‘smells great’ symbolising a scent that is as delicate and enduring as a fine mist, gently permeating its surroundings. This name encapsulates our aspiration for a beautiful life and our dedication to crafting exquisite fragrances.

We are committed to creating scents that elevate the quality of life, drawing inspiration from Taiwanese local culture and elements, and blending art and creativity into the craft of perfumery. We meticulously select cosmetic-grade ingredients that meet EU IFRA standards and maintain an unwavering stance against animal testing. Our focus is on sustainable development, choosing materials that minimise carbon footprints, and providing you with a worry-free sensory experience.

We are dedicated to genderless fragrances, allowing scents to transcend traditional boundaries. Here, gender, identity, consciousness, and emotion flow freely, just like the fragrance itself, without fixed shapes or limits. Our scents empower everyone to express their individuality and experience a boundless sensation.

Choosing PĀNG means embracing a lifestyle that is open, inclusive, and free. We believe you are entitled to this luxurious experience—where each breath is filled with pleasure and liberation.

Let PĀNG envelop you in lasting fragrance wherever you go. You deserve PĀNG.

I see design as a powerful form of communication, a way to share my perspective with the world. Through imagery, words, and considered layouts, I can craft narratives that resonate with an audience. Crucially, this must be underpinned by meaningful values, and, naturally, the work needs to be visually compelling.

While I appreciate a variety of design styles, I'm particularly drawn to work that reveals hidden layers of meaning. As someone with an eye for detail, I find designs with subtle nuances and clever allusions incredibly engaging. Those are the designs that truly capture my imagination and leave a lasting impression.

For me, good design is about more than just aesthetics; it's about the designer's intention to communicate something meaningful to the viewer.

My process always starts with sourcing the right materials. For the fragrance carrier, the market is dominated by plastic granules infused with scent. But, given that these products are typically single-use, I wanted to explore more sustainable options that would reduce our carbon footprint.

And, since I'm passionate about incorporating local elements, I eventually discovered biochar made from Taiwanese water caltrop's shells – a fantastic, eco-friendly solution. I was also determined to create something visually appealing, so the main design features all the fragrance ingredients used in each blend, all brought together in a photographic image – it plays to my background in visual arts, plus I'm not the most confident illustrator!

With these scented envelopes being placed in small spaces, I wanted customers to have a positive sensory experience both in terms of the lovely fragrance and the visual enjoyment.

My mother has a real fondness for these types of scented sachets from France. It struck me that they weren't as common in Taiwan, where scented card seem to be more popular at the moment. I thought sachets were such a lovely idea – they're charming, make a perfect gift, and offer so much room for creative expression. So, I decided to develop my own version using biochar, hence the envelope-style fragrance sachet.

Indeed! Despite five years in London, I returned to my roots in Taiwan. My experiences abroad were invaluable, highlighting the beauty and impact of diverse cultures, but also the vital importance of preserving our own. Culture shapes us, and that's why I'm dedicated to promoting Taiwanese culture through design. My brand actively incorporates elements of our heritage, from visual motifs to the inspiration behind our fragrances. I believe that to be truly international, we must first be deeply rooted in our own cultural identity.

It's truly a one-person operation at the moment! I'm responsible for everything from product design and material selection to all the little details. However, for the typography on this particular product, I had the wonderful support of my friend, Wan Ru Lin from RuRu Bomb Limited. I'm so grateful for her talent; it really helped bring the whole design together! I honestly can't believe that my very first foray into product design has been recognised with an award. It's incredibly moving and such an honour!

PĀNG’s Scented Envelope merges innovative design with environmental responsibility, transforming small spaces with an air of elegance. Each envelope contains 10g of biochar made from Taiwanese water caltrop shells, offering a distinct aromatic experience while reducing your carbon footprint. Every envelope fixes 29.4g of CO₂ emissions from the atmosphere, turning an agricultural byproduct into a sustainable resource that minimises waste and supports local communities. This single-use scented envelope uses biodegradable and compostable biochar as an essential oil carrier, offering an eco-friendlier alternative to conventional sachets. After its fragrance dissipates, the biochar can be washed and composted, completing a zero-waste cycle that contributes back to the earth.

The series’ visual design takes inspiration from Taiwan’s natural beauty, drawing from orchid fields, vibrant fern forests, and the culturally significant betel plant. These designs transform Taiwan’s diverse landscapes into creative visual art, embodying a harmonious blend of cultural heritage and innovative sustainability. PĀNG’s Scented Envelope reflects the brand’s commitment to a greener, more elegant future, delivering a unique product that unites aromatic beauty, functionality, and environmental care.

The visual design of Fern Murmur highlights a green fern enveloping a white lily, symbolising nature’s strength and purity. The background, featuring roasted Jin Xuan Oolong tea leaves and cottonwood, evokes the swirling tea in a cup, blending Taiwan’s nature with tea culture. Betel Blossom Night showcases a betel blossom surrounding swaying irises, reflecting traditional betel nut wrapping techniques in Taiwan.

The soft pink twilight and tuberose outline symbolise Taiwan’s land connection. Black Orchid Dream presents a fantastical dreamscape where the black orchid shifts through different forms, resembling a rose. Madagascar vanilla pods curl like flower stems, and cocoa transforms into leaves. The background, with pink pepper scattered like light points, creates an ethereal beauty.

The French Design Awards are undoubtedly highly regarded on a global scale. And, I must admit, the trophy itself is exceptionally beautiful. It's certainly a motivating factor! (chuckles)

Honestly, it's been a real rollercoaster! This venture is entirely new for me – my first company, my first fragrance brand. I've been responsible for everything, and it's been a massive undertaking. My background is in contemporary image art, which is a world away from the commercial realities of product development. The sheer number of things to consider and the different way of thinking, It's been a huge adjustment. There were times I doubted myself, and I learned a lot from my mistakes, working tirelessly until I finally achieved a result I was pleased with.

This recognition from a prestigious international award has been incredibly validating. It's given me a renewed sense of confidence in my creative journey and has inspired me to strive for even greater heights. It's a powerful reminder that I am capable of achieving my goals.

Firstly, there are no limitations. Secondly, it allows me to express myself through design. Finally, the potential for positive impact.

Perhaps it's because I don't have a traditional design background that I'm able to approach things from a different angle. Everyone's life experiences are unique, and I believe the things I create are a culmination of everything I've absorbed along the way.

The design industry's future hinges on several key trends. AI integration will accelerate, moving from task automation to collaborative partnership, empowering designers while human creativity remains essential. User experience and accessibility will be paramount, requiring designers to prioritise inclusive and ethical design for diverse populations. Sustainability will be non-negotiable, driving demand for environmentally and socially responsible solutions.

Immersive technologies (VR/AR/MR) will create new design frontiers, demanding specialised skills and an understanding of user interaction. Design disciplines will converge, requiring versatile, cross-platform collaborators. Data-driven personalisation will enable tailored user experiences.

Finally, compelling storytelling will be crucial, empowering designers to craft resonant narratives that communicate value. These interwoven trends will shape a technologically advanced, ethically conscious, and creatively expansive design landscape.

Be yourself, and create fearlessly! Draw inspiration from your life experiences and current trends. In today's world of information overload, observe what's lacking and find ways to improve and refine what already exists.

I wouldn't presume to give anyone advice, as I'm not a design expert myself. But I'd say just keep trying new things, add them to what you already know, and explore areas you haven't encountered before. Stay curious!

I can't tell you that, as this interview will be public, and then everyone in the world would know my little secret! You won't trick me that easily! (laughs)

On a personal level, my greatest influence has been my mother. She's incredibly wise and open-minded, the most tolerant and accepting person I know. Her unique quirks have shaped who I am today, and I'm eternally grateful for her influence. Academically, I was deeply impacted by my university and postgraduate professor, Nigel Perkins.

Sadly, he passed away during the pandemic. He was brilliant and forward-thinking, incredibly supportive, yet always guiding me in the right direction. He profoundly shaped my approach to visual art and was instrumental in developing my artistic thinking. I miss him dearly.

Don't ever assume you've reached the pinnacle of success because it's always a long way off. And how do we even define success? It's about setting yourself targets at every stage of the journey, and regardless of whether you reach them, you continue progressing towards those goals. Have faith in your own abilities, listen to the advice of others, and work harder than ever.

The whole winning thing is just like a dream! Thank you again for giving me the award!